Cental America
And Back
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Turtle Bay; where all roads are dirt and lead to more dirt. The surrounding hills and mountains are quite barren, hardly a cactus growing there. The winds blow ceaselessly through this dusty town, leaving cinder block shacks with a layer of soft dirt. It's the largest natural bay in Baja and the only thing probably stopping it from becoming a very busy port is water. There isn't any fresh water for hundreds of miles away, it must be trucked in. The thing is, I can’t figure out why this town appears to be in the middle of a financial boom. There is new construction all around the village and new Main Street gutters with an asphalt street to follow. There are new cars and trucks and new outboard motors. As are almost all of the villages touching the Pacific waters in Mexico, Turtle Bay is a fishing community, but with a relatively small fleet. A couple of shrimpers and a dozen pangas dont begin to justify the apparent prosperity. Perhaps they had a really good year. A group of pangas come through the anchorage, chanting and singing, a ceremonial tribute to the Gods of good fishing and safe passages. Or perhaps it was a little celebration of their good fortune for finding Pancho Villas’ lost treasure. Most everybody was dressed well and greeted us kindly and often enthusiastically. I never saw one homeless person, unusual but it's such a small village they must take care of their own, or hide them. And twice someone stopped what they were doing to escort us to the place we were looking for. The worst thing I can say about this place was there cell service for wifi. Large cell tower was no match for the amount of bandwidth these folks are using and just a few minutes after midnight, just when the usage started to let up so I could check the weather, they turned the tower off. Why? We were ready to leave TB and asked Enrique Jr. if he knew anyone that could clean the bottom of our boat. He said yes and for $60 would send them right out. Two days later he sent his son, who had never done this work before. When he finished, he wanted $150 because we made sure he cleaned the prop and he said that was not included. We said it was. I was sorry to leave Turtle Bay with this bad experience clinging to the bottom of Ashika, as well as all the barnacles he missed. Peace.
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